Small Mouth Bass
White Tail Deer Buck
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G. Loomis of Washington, USA and
Ontario Canada
www.gloomis.com
Megastrike/Cavitron/Evolution Jigs of
New Jersey, USA
www.megastrike.com
Gary Yamamoto Custom Baits of
Arizona, USA.
www.baits.com
Ontario Canada
www.gloomis.com
Megastrike/Cavitron/Evolution Jigs of
New Jersey, USA
www.megastrike.com
Gary Yamamoto Custom Baits of
Arizona, USA.
www.baits.com
Change with the seasons for better bassin.
As the long hot days of summer begin their change to fall, it is important to remember to
make changes in your presentation and terminal tackle if you want to continue to catch
both quality and quantities of bass.
During the warmer weather, with a light to moderate breeze, we know that slow rolling a
bright white and chartreuse spinnerbait with a trailer to match, in semi clear water, will
get you a good supply of large and smallmouth bass.
Then we are “told” (if the water is stained) to use Colorado blades for vibration, or
Willow leaf blades for flash.
The important question is what do I now do, to change my spinnerbait presentation for
the fall?
First of all think “fall”.
By that I mean think about the “falling” temperatures, and the baitfish that begin to “fall”
lower into the water column from the weather changes that will eventually kill them.
Bass are looking for these easy targets and will always strike at a fish that looks weak
or is acting in a strange manner from the others in a school.
Whenever you go fishing with spinnerbaits, the drag setting on the reel you use should
be on the top of your checklist. A loose drag will compromise the strike and your ability
to control the fish once the hook is set. If your drag is set too tightly, it will in many cases
rip the spinnerbait away from the bass and neutralize the stretch from the
monofilament, which realistically is the only line to use for this application. A drag that is
set to withstand the shock of the strike, but has the flexibility to release line in a crucial
situation is vital to your success.
With a rod between 6’ to 6’6”, make multiple * fan casts, beyond your target areas and
stall the spinnerbait on your retrieve at your target location, wait a few seconds and then
speed up your retrieve to look like a fleeing baitfish, this will often temp any lurking fish
into striking, even if it does not want too. Remember to lift you rod during the retrieve
and “wake” the spinnerbait blades on the surface. This often catches larger fish that
are looking for fleeing baitfish as they emerge. How often have you seen small groups of
baitfish suddenly burst out of the water? It happens everyday in the life of a bass and is
almost expected. Creating that environment for them will trigger those large and often
less aggressive bass into striking.
*Fan casting is best described by imagining you are the centre of a watch. Your first cast
would be to 10 o’clock then, 11 etc all the way around to 2’o clock.
One of the most important things I have learned over the years is to change my trailers
when the weather begins to cool down from matching the spinnerbait colors, to darker
colors which include orange and red. Don’t ask me to explain why these color changes
work, but they do!
Something else I like to do, is mix my blades! The standard two Willow Leaf or Willow
and Colorado blade “combo’s” are still workable, but certainly something in my opinion
that need a facelift!
My preference would be “French blades” in tandem. French blades give me the flash of
the willow leaf but the added “thump” of the Colorado. A large single blade Colorado is
my second choice and in third place comes a smaller Colorado blade with a larger
willow leaf or French blade on the back.
With a pair of long nosed pliers (preferably with a split ring divider) do not be afraid to
adjust, alter or remove your spinnerbait components to accommodate a particular
situation. Spare blades, clips and skirts can be purchased on line from several fishing
supply companies, so do not be afraid to experiment.
Tight Lines!
Charles “The Bass Doctor” Stuart
Copyright (c) Charles Graham MacLeod-Stuart. Permission is granted to copy, distribute
and/or modify this document under the terms of the GNU Free Documentation License,
Version 1.2 or any later version published by the Free Software Foundation; with no
Invarian Sections, no Front-Cover Texts, and no Back-Cover Text.
As the long hot days of summer begin their change to fall, it is important to remember to
make changes in your presentation and terminal tackle if you want to continue to catch
both quality and quantities of bass.
During the warmer weather, with a light to moderate breeze, we know that slow rolling a
bright white and chartreuse spinnerbait with a trailer to match, in semi clear water, will
get you a good supply of large and smallmouth bass.
Then we are “told” (if the water is stained) to use Colorado blades for vibration, or
Willow leaf blades for flash.
The important question is what do I now do, to change my spinnerbait presentation for
the fall?
First of all think “fall”.
By that I mean think about the “falling” temperatures, and the baitfish that begin to “fall”
lower into the water column from the weather changes that will eventually kill them.
Bass are looking for these easy targets and will always strike at a fish that looks weak
or is acting in a strange manner from the others in a school.
Whenever you go fishing with spinnerbaits, the drag setting on the reel you use should
be on the top of your checklist. A loose drag will compromise the strike and your ability
to control the fish once the hook is set. If your drag is set too tightly, it will in many cases
rip the spinnerbait away from the bass and neutralize the stretch from the
monofilament, which realistically is the only line to use for this application. A drag that is
set to withstand the shock of the strike, but has the flexibility to release line in a crucial
situation is vital to your success.
With a rod between 6’ to 6’6”, make multiple * fan casts, beyond your target areas and
stall the spinnerbait on your retrieve at your target location, wait a few seconds and then
speed up your retrieve to look like a fleeing baitfish, this will often temp any lurking fish
into striking, even if it does not want too. Remember to lift you rod during the retrieve
and “wake” the spinnerbait blades on the surface. This often catches larger fish that
are looking for fleeing baitfish as they emerge. How often have you seen small groups of
baitfish suddenly burst out of the water? It happens everyday in the life of a bass and is
almost expected. Creating that environment for them will trigger those large and often
less aggressive bass into striking.
*Fan casting is best described by imagining you are the centre of a watch. Your first cast
would be to 10 o’clock then, 11 etc all the way around to 2’o clock.
One of the most important things I have learned over the years is to change my trailers
when the weather begins to cool down from matching the spinnerbait colors, to darker
colors which include orange and red. Don’t ask me to explain why these color changes
work, but they do!
Something else I like to do, is mix my blades! The standard two Willow Leaf or Willow
and Colorado blade “combo’s” are still workable, but certainly something in my opinion
that need a facelift!
My preference would be “French blades” in tandem. French blades give me the flash of
the willow leaf but the added “thump” of the Colorado. A large single blade Colorado is
my second choice and in third place comes a smaller Colorado blade with a larger
willow leaf or French blade on the back.
With a pair of long nosed pliers (preferably with a split ring divider) do not be afraid to
adjust, alter or remove your spinnerbait components to accommodate a particular
situation. Spare blades, clips and skirts can be purchased on line from several fishing
supply companies, so do not be afraid to experiment.
Tight Lines!
Charles “The Bass Doctor” Stuart
Copyright (c) Charles Graham MacLeod-Stuart. Permission is granted to copy, distribute
and/or modify this document under the terms of the GNU Free Documentation License,
Version 1.2 or any later version published by the Free Software Foundation; with no
Invarian Sections, no Front-Cover Texts, and no Back-Cover Text.
FISHING TIPS
FISHING ADVENTURES
HUNTING TIPS
HUNTING ADVENTURES
PHOTO'S - PICTURES
FISHING CLUBS,
HUNTING LEASES
PRODUCT REVIEWS
CONSERVATION
LINK PARTNERS
FISHING ADVENTURES
HUNTING TIPS
HUNTING ADVENTURES
PHOTO'S - PICTURES
FISHING CLUBS,
HUNTING LEASES
PRODUCT REVIEWS
CONSERVATION
LINK PARTNERS
Most popular knot used by bass fishermen
The PALOMAR KNOT - For Joining Line To A Fish Hook
The Palomar Knot is easy to tie correctly, and consistently the strongest knot known to
hold terminal tackle.
1. Double about 4" of line and pass the loop through the eye of fishing hook.
2. Let the fishing hook hang loose, and tie an overhand knot in the doubled line.
Avoid twisting the lines and do NOT tighten the knot.
3. Pull the loop end of the line far enough to pass it over the hook, swivel or lure.
Make sure the loop passes completely over the attachment.
4. Pull both the tag end and the standing line until the knot is tightened. Clip off the tag
end of the fishing line.
The PALOMAR KNOT - For Joining Line To A Fish Hook
The Palomar Knot is easy to tie correctly, and consistently the strongest knot known to
hold terminal tackle.
1. Double about 4" of line and pass the loop through the eye of fishing hook.
2. Let the fishing hook hang loose, and tie an overhand knot in the doubled line.
Avoid twisting the lines and do NOT tighten the knot.
3. Pull the loop end of the line far enough to pass it over the hook, swivel or lure.
Make sure the loop passes completely over the attachment.
4. Pull both the tag end and the standing line until the knot is tightened. Clip off the tag
end of the fishing line.
How to Build a Camp Fire
Hunter's Fire
Good for cooking and has good wind protection. Not useful for entertaining or warming.
* Retrieve two short logs 6 to 8 inches in diameter and place them nearly parallel to each
other about 6 inches apart at one end and 3 inches at the other.
* Create small teepee fire between the logs and feed it fuel until there are good coals.
* Use the two logs as a platform on which you set your pots to cook.
* Spread or pile the coals to create hotter and cooler cooking areas.
Teepee Fire
This is my favorite and I believe the most useful and easiest to light. The key is to stick a
few sticks into the ground to supply support for the rest of the kindling.
* Place your tinder bundle on the ground or on a small piece of bark.
* Stick three or four kindling twigs in the ground to form a teepee above the tinder.
* Lean small kindling twigs against the downwind side of the tinder.
* Leave an opening on the upwind side all the way to the center tinder where you can
light the fire.
* Continue to lean twigs around the teepee structure.
* Work your way up to pencil-sized sticks, leaving plenty of air space between sticks.
* Poke three or four pencil-sized sticks into the ground forming a larger teepee
structure.
* Lean some smaller fuelwood pieces against this support structure.
* Have additional small fuelwood and kindling ready in case it is needed.
This style produces a fast flame and quickly falls into itself in a pile of coals. The heat is
directed up to a single point and is useful for boiling water in a single pot above the
teepee. Once the teepee collapses, fuelwood can be laid around it like a log cabin or just
criss-cross on top of the flames.
For more information on Campfires visit: http://www.campfiredude.com/
Hunter's Fire
Good for cooking and has good wind protection. Not useful for entertaining or warming.
* Retrieve two short logs 6 to 8 inches in diameter and place them nearly parallel to each
other about 6 inches apart at one end and 3 inches at the other.
* Create small teepee fire between the logs and feed it fuel until there are good coals.
* Use the two logs as a platform on which you set your pots to cook.
* Spread or pile the coals to create hotter and cooler cooking areas.
Teepee Fire
This is my favorite and I believe the most useful and easiest to light. The key is to stick a
few sticks into the ground to supply support for the rest of the kindling.
* Place your tinder bundle on the ground or on a small piece of bark.
* Stick three or four kindling twigs in the ground to form a teepee above the tinder.
* Lean small kindling twigs against the downwind side of the tinder.
* Leave an opening on the upwind side all the way to the center tinder where you can
light the fire.
* Continue to lean twigs around the teepee structure.
* Work your way up to pencil-sized sticks, leaving plenty of air space between sticks.
* Poke three or four pencil-sized sticks into the ground forming a larger teepee
structure.
* Lean some smaller fuelwood pieces against this support structure.
* Have additional small fuelwood and kindling ready in case it is needed.
This style produces a fast flame and quickly falls into itself in a pile of coals. The heat is
directed up to a single point and is useful for boiling water in a single pot above the
teepee. Once the teepee collapses, fuelwood can be laid around it like a log cabin or just
criss-cross on top of the flames.
For more information on Campfires visit: http://www.campfiredude.com/
